Surf YOGA
What is the potential of surfing and how to realize it?
A brief reflection on the various dimensions of surfing, in order to raise the aspects that realize or affect this potential and reach an understanding that will form the basis of a surfing philosophy.
Yoga gives an essential help as it is a very complete practice, art, philosophy and science, precisely dedicated to the realization of our potential, with thousands of years of proven evidence. On the one hand, the help comes from the correct understanding of yoga, through which we can assess surfing in a deeper and more comprehensive way. On the other hand, there is an incentive to practice yoga that must be properly assumed and continue in the water, so that the potential of surfing can be revealed.
The union of this understanding and practice can generate a surfyoga, that is, a yoga practice before going into the water that is already surfing and dealing with the issues that arise there, but also a surfing practice that keeps developing the various dimensions of yoga. Finally, continuing a movement that began with Gerry Lopez in the 70s and is increasingly expressive, it is hoped that this surfyoga will allow the realization of the potential of surfing (individual and social), namely through its practitioners and the process that can arise from there, contributing to what will be the future philosophy, science and art of surfing.
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The practice of yoga generates a set of objective personal developments, in terms of tranquility, flexibility, concentration and psycho-physical integration, which are extremely important factors for the evolution of any sport activity . In the same sense, but in a more comprehensive way, as it has been recognized in countless fields, the different evolutions, derived from the practice of yoga, are essential for human achievement, filling in all our potentials and dimensions.
The word yoga refers to the various meanings of a union, that can be understood between the more or less complex aspects of the conscious process, the self or the personality and the wisdom of our nature, of biology and its more subtle integrating dimensions.
Yoga enhances a natural process that is always happening but, during sleep, reveals its essential importance, as a spontaneous yoga that assures biological balance and all conscious qualities, without which everything becomes complicated and life is impossible. The practice of yoga brings the wisdom that generates and manages all levels of the living being, namely, the subtle integration, to the conscious dynamics and its correlations between body and mind, helping in the gradual transformation of the complex structures of each one and opening to a fuller and more conscious experience of our existence in this universal creative process, that is, to human achievement.
Therefore, yoga is an aid that enhances our natural process, so we are always doing a type of yoga or, in certain modes of that union, and we can say that everything is always yoga. This can be clearly seen when we assess the various dimensions that will be worked on in its practice.
All of us are always practicing certain ethical definitions, based on past experience, therefore, developing relational disciplines and self-analysis regarding everything that comes to us, internally and externally, with a given sense of equality, acceptance, etc. of ourselves and of others, of surrender to moments's creative becoming or to something that transcends us, etc. And this constant training is not separated from the rest of our existence, as it is influenced by and influences our emotional and organic state, body postures, breathing modes, hence the quality of our concentration, its wisdom or limitation, the reflective/creative fluidity or meditative capacity and the more or less partial sense of our fulfillment or union with subtle nature (internal/external).
In other words, we are always in a given practice of these dimensions that are interdependent, as they are all occurring at the same time and influencing each other. Therefore, practicing yoga implies a good understanding of this interdependence and, therefore, that nothing evolves separately, mechanically and immediately, but in a conscientious, gradual and progressive training of each dimension, which realizes the mobilization of the others and the obstructive or facilitating correlations.
It all starts with the ethical definition, the relational discipline and self-analysis that will partially unblock the body, the breath, etc. and allow the biological wisdom of subtle integration to dominate the correlation between the various dimensions and guide their evolutionary process. With this ongoing union, we can enter into the practice of physical postures and their sequences, which will raise complex correlations and its resolutions, namely, with the help of breathing and understanding, opening up to a deepening of the other dimensions, (concentration and meditation) and the level of its subtle integration. Later, we will be able to devote ourselves to breathing practices that take this resolution to deeper levels and, finally, to those of concentration and meditation, which refine the union, leading to a fuller manifestation of subtle biological integration, in the conscious experience of the self/ world and in the wisdom of understanding and correlations's solving….
Of all these dimensions, breathing is the one that most evidently expresses the constraints that affect all of them and simultaneously opens them up to subtle integration. Therefore, we can say that it expresses the solving dynamics of yoga, because, in its becoming, it opens the body and posture, allowing this integration to act in the aspects to be resolved and unify the various dimensions in its wisdom.
Breathing is the wave that we “catch” and, as we go with it, we become aware of the difficulties that arise and discover the intuitive means of their resolution, beginning to open up to and experience yoga's potential. Taking a first approach to surfing, we would say that the going on the ocean wave is a moment of transformation and opening to the potential of surfing through the same intuitive means.
Surfing is yoga, where the relationship with the sea, with the surf and the flow with the wave naturally tend to solve certain difficulties and open us to a subtle integration, but the level at which this union takes place depends on how surfing is being assumed and realizing the various dimensions of this potential: sportive, ludic, human and spiritual.
Let's look at this potential as well as to the interdependence of the various dimensions, to understand how we can accomplish it and the help that yoga can give.
We start with contextual factors. As has been known for a long time, the “air” of the sea is very therapeutic. Or rather, the correlation of all aspects (sea, landscape, sun, odors, breezes, sand, rocks, etc.) in a continuous synchronized evolution generates a spontaneous therapeutic process.
Therefore, being close to the sea or at sea is a good yoga, because in this entry in phase with all the change, we move to another brain dynamic's, more reflective, playful and intuitive, where neurotransmitters linked to pleasure, balance and happiness are reinforced, along with brain waves linked to relaxation and meditation, while stress hormones are reduced and those linked to empathy, generosity, loving relationships, etc. are increased.
The sea context takes us to a more meditative state of consciousness, with different protrusions (reflective, ecstatic or playful), marked by the sense of freedom, expansiveness, stopping of time, creative opening, connection with the infinite or transcendent, with the life, nature, etc. It is always something very personal that is based on a spiritual dimension, more or less conscious, therefore, an encounter with our nature.
To point out the meaning of this dimension in surfing, we would say that all contextual stimulation, in this continuously evolving synchronization, and especially that generated by the sea, will be experienced in a deeper and more integrated way, as we overcome the different challenges raised by the sea, the surf and the waves, leading this spontaneous meeting, between life in the outer nature and the nature of life in us, to an intimate, transcendent and, therefore, sacred union, which defines being a surfer and what we would call the subtle relationship with the sea.
Surfing is an art or a yoga, where we are in a continuous surrender and intuitive adaptation, perfecting the synchronization with all the forces and factors that the sea raises and, as we enter into phase with these variables and arrive at the ecstatic becoming with the wave, we flow in a wisdom that is being given to us in the present moment, and rediscover ourselves as others, transformed and new, in a catharsis with the wave that, in this surrender, allows an integration or metaphysical synthesis between our subtle nature, that of the sea and of all contextual stimuli.
Everything in surfing is challenging, stimulating/transforming and discovered in the continuous adaptive surrender and its refinement of synchronies: with the rhythms of the surf, the forces, currents, etc., the sets of waves, the peak where they break, the entrance in the wave and then the cathartic flow and the emotional and ecstatic transformations of the maneuvers, in phase with the energetic becoming of the wave and its small perfections.
That is, the challenges are being overcome by a surrender, (letting go of the self, fears, bodily and mental habits, fixed structures, etc.), which becomes the wisdom of entering into phase and the subtle refinement of synchronization, and when we are in the flow itself, we belong to the perfection of the energy of the wave which, where there is this release, is in our water, with a quality that depends on its wisdom.
So our becoming in this transformation generates a union, a yoga that integrates the synchrony and harmony of our subtle nature, with that of all of nature: without knowing it, we are the wave, the landscape, the sea, etc., and all that is lived in a magical way, as freedom and transcendence, which is in us, in space and in others, becoming a concentration and capacity for a new surrender, synchronization and the deepening of this relationship with the sea and the real.
Positive psychology considers a conscious state called flow which, in any type of activity (professional, sportive, artistic, etc.), is generated by a challenging situation that we are able to solve immediately and, surrendering completely to the present moment, we forget ouselves and enter in the becoming of an extremely adaptive concentration or, in a high performance, creative and productive, with several brain benefits, namely in terms of generating new connections, which makes us feel happy, creative, connected, motivated, able to go beyond everything, etc.
In surfing, we are always in a certain flow, in the present of continuous adaptation, to the rhythms of different variables and stimuli, which culminates in the few moments in which we flow in the wave, entering into concentration and sensitive transmutation, where this indescribable union takes place, between the life of inner and outer nature, and literally the flow that gives the name to the state and its true meaning.
This union is the spiritual dimension or essence of surf which, like yoga, is happening simultaneously with the others, in an interdependence to be understood and worked on so that surfing's potential can be realized.
The surfer is forged in that presence and coming into phase with countless natural perfections that, throughout the fluxive becoming in the wave, are making a subtle union and merging through it, depending on the wisdom of this surrender and everything that he takes to those moments. That is, the perfection of being with the energy of the wave creates this unifying forge of all perfections, depending on various factors.
This forge generates a transcendence that the surfer experiences continuously without knowing how to explain it - is his surrender, freedom, power, natural connection and synchronicity with reality - that is more or less deepened through training and challenges but, above all, in the way it is assumed and circumscribed by the “clothing” or structuring of the self and the different aspects of the human, ludic and sportive dimensions.
The subtle forging process, between the interior and the exterior, tends to deepen as the surfer goes through the perfections of good waves, with strength, long, tubular, big; through perfect seas or conditions with countless perfect synchronies and, namely though solitary moments or among peers, in which this transcendent sense is everywhere; in silent concentration, in the harmony of relationships, in belonging and full surrender, etc. In these literally unforgettable moments, the self transforms in this forge of perfections and, silencing itself in the interior surrender, it gives space to the resultant, so that it remains present and its wisdom penetrates all dimensions of life, making him a surfer, a human being generated in the sacredness of this relationship with the sea and nature.
To intuit surf's yoga, let's imagine a kind of “retreat”, in which, for a while (days, weeks, months, or years…), the surfer is alone in a heavenly place with perfect waves. There is no one to surf or talk to, but the conversation will remain silent and continuous with nature and the sea, in a forge whose infinite encompasses everything and is always present, in its own rhythms and synchronies, raising the facets of the self, the ways in which they structure this relationship in the various dimensions of surfing, the resolute reflections and the moments of full intimacy.
In this retreat, everything comes to the fore, is seen and, in the silence of surrender, integrates into the subtlety of this yoga, taking us to other levels of synchrony and surfing magic's, namely linked to the secrets of breathing: ancestral fears, personal processes, traumas, etc. but , namely, all the conscious structuring, which circumscribes this transforming channel in the ways in which it appropriates and defines it within personal particularities.
The magic of the transforming union, that surfing always is, will be able to reveal many levels of wisdom and lead us to different types of moments, when everything is in this infinite and there is no separation between me, wave, sea and nature... we are led to the divine intimacy and maternal sweetness of this union, which can reach the point where we experience everything in a completely different way, difficult to describe...
Taking all this into account, we would say that the spiritual dimension is always the essence of surfing, although it may be more or less filtered by the structures established in other dimensions. In this sense, it is important to tune into the memory of surfing which, over more than fifteen hundred years, was a key component in the collective “retreat”, where Hawaiian culture developed and deepened the sacredness of its relationship with the sea and nature.
A relationship with all synchronies, perfections and their secrets, which is clarified in the first meaning of the word Aloha , as – presence to the breath of life or, spirit of nature – which is in all beings, in their subtle correlations and is our essence, to be lived through wisdom in the human relationship.
Therefore, in this wise care of the relationship, sacredness is experienced in everything: such as the tree and the board, which is its daughter and allows you to forge in the wave, where everything merges, such as in dance, in love and in awakening of the self to the final secret of its reality (huna), guarded by the kahuna and made known in the same intuitive ways, which lead us to subconscious silence and allow the responsibility for the totality of life.
As today, in this surfing, the various dimensions coexisted (sportive, recreational, human and spiritual), but structured in this channel of direct relationship to the infinite creator, that is, by attention to the spiritual dimension, within the particular ways of this culture. Currently, the relationship with surfing is structured differently, but if we take care of this dimension, all the others will tend to be fully realized, solving the problems of surf culture and realizing its potential in surfers and in our culture as a whole.
Thus, regarding the human dimension, I highlight some essential aspects in the continuity of the spiritual that, depending on the contexts and times, will be more or less clouded by others. These aspects are very present, at least in the beginning, when the group of acquaintances or friends are discovering this forge in nature and live a common transcendence, as if an energetic abstraction beyond the cultural, local and family identity, a belonging to a greater or more real freedom, because lived in a direct existential and non-critical way, an indescribable happiness for not being based on anything concrete or possessable, a direct equality derived from the transcendent in this common experience, a wisdom given spontaneously by merging with the perfections of nature, a sense of invincibility and a new look at social and cultural structures, their fixed points, prejudices, blocks in critical, materialistic values, etc.
Identity is in this transformation and belonging to a spontaneous friendship and equality, where the gifts of each one are expressed and valued in various ways, as well as the differences in the deepening of the relationship with the sea are felt and respected. An important aspect is the vibration between everyone in the water, from which instincts are tuned and intuitive learning evolves with the group's forge. The concentration of each one, namely those with a wiser relationship with the sea, is in the air and in everyone, and the moment someone enters the sync of catching and going on the wave, whoever sees him feels everything, is with him and opens up to the feeling of the moment to help and enter in that trance, sometimes screams to encourage or to match the power of what is happening. Later, when it's his turn, he feels that what he saw and lived in the concentration of the other is now in him and, without knowing how, he gained power, wisdom and even maneuvers naturally come out on another level.
The group generates a joint intuitive learning, where everyone is deepening their relationship with the sea, that subtle aspect that each recognizes in the other and has nothing to do with the mastery of technicalities or levels of maneuvers but, deep down, with the presence of spiritual dimension in each one and its integration with the others. This ability to feel this infinite in the other and to respect it is the basis of surf culture, which allows the full realization of the human dimension and solves the relational complexities that arise and can block this entire process, transforming being in the sanctuary of the waves into a kind of battlefield, where, in many ways, the drama of humanity is being cultivated.
This ability to feel where the other is in the relationship with the sea, establishes a natural order between everyone, a harmony of the essential and an encounter with the truth of what we are doing in the water, which will guide the evolution of each one, helping the individual and the group process.
Thus, we return to the meaning of the word Aloha, in this case, as a presence to the breath of life in the other, therefore, a presence that is really realized when it is shared among everyone, leading to the expression of the various meanings of this word and the full realization of the human dimension. A shared presence, where friendship, generosity, acceptance, gentleness, humility, patienc and, perseverance spontaneously flourish and, deep down, peace, love, compassion and happiness are realized.
The word Aloha synthesizes the fruits of the ancient retreat of Hawaiian culture, the spiritual channel that was generated and the human dimensions that could manifest and be lived consistently over time, becoming the nature of this culture, expressed in many of its facets .
It is important to clarify a little what happened to this people and culture: as with other indigenous peoples, 90% of the population was decimated by the illnesses of the "visitors", on the other hand, the culture was abused, violated, blocked and altered; the lands were appropriated, then there was an invasion of foreign workers, the legitimate government suffered a coup d'état by large foreign landowners and the archipelago was eventually “ annexed ” by the US and turned into a military center (namely nuclear, until the 90's); finally the tourism industry chewed up nature and culture, imposing other logics and, above all, a standard of living that led 50% of the indigenous population to move out of Hawaii, where only 10% are indigenous (24% are multiracial), of these 10%, 15% live on the poverty line, and 50% of the homeless are indigenous ( Hawaii is the US state with the highest percentage of homeless people).
In the midst of the lack of respect, abuse and deep trauma on many levels, the people of Hawaii have been able to keep the fruits of their millenary retreat and, at this moment, are focused on them and on the realization of their rights and cultural ways, believing that, in the future, Hawaii will be a place of authentic Aloha spirit .
In the context of our reflection, these questions are important in several ways.
On the one hand, it is necessary to support the Hawaiians, who are currently worse off than the North American Indians, and, in this sense, to generate a worldwide movement, potentially led by surfers and supported by the big brands. In other words, it is necessary to value the nation, the culture and generate the involvement that allows the flowering and expression of the proper ways of Aloha wisdom in the various facets of society.
On the other hand, what happened to Hawaiian culture and its human dimension is somewhat what has been happening to surf culture, creating limitations to understanding and realization of its potential. If the surfing world manages to solve the internal problems associated with these limitations, and deepen the true meaning of this potential, then the spiritual, therapeutic and human dimensions can flourish and have a truly important impact on society.
Before evaluating these limitations, let's look a little at the ludic and sportive dimension.
All apects of phasing in and synchronizing with nature, sea, surf, wave and the evolution along it have existential and playful components that are very stimulating, cathartic and truly transcendent. In this sense, the synchrony of the surfer's movement with the particularity of the wave is highlighted, the dance of maneuvering in this living process, which slides with the energy and returns to its peak to receive it, in rotating transitions, snaps, jumps, returns, etc. that occur at high speed, with soupless and changes in perspective and conscious states that are difficult to explain.
In other words, surfing is extremely playful, liberating and energizing, generating immense moments of self-fulfillment and pleasure. This facet is so strong that the surfer becomes “addicted” to this practice of synchronies and perfections, unable to live without it and organizing life around it.
Regarding the sportive dimension, on the one hand, we have the highly adaptive and intuitive training, in which the entire practice is developed, without much possibility of analytical stops and segmented preparations. Hence the importance of balancing the other dimensions, concentration and fine synchronization, that the surfer develops before entering the wave, so that he is freed from the attitudinal, postural and relational "clothes", completely open and surrendered to the moment, being able to rediscover himself in it and let what he has seen emerge, in his own expressive form, and that sportive evolution emerges from this channel of delivery and discovery.
On the other hand, surfing is a diversified exercise with various levels of intensity, interspersed with moments of rest and integration, in phase with the landscape and the group and, in particular, moments of flow , with more or less soupless and synergistic, expressive and cathartic effort, where psycho-physical openings and integrations take place. It is a very demanding sport, either because of the intensity imposed by the surf and the different sizes and types of waves, or because of the need to keep the soupless in the continuous, synchronized and adapted response to their evolutions, where the energy exchange is maximized in radical maneuvers, increasingly innovative and even “acrobatic”.
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So let's look at some of the factors that block the expression of the various dimensions of surfing and the full realization of its potential. In addition to the existential and playful factors that we have been highlighting, it is important to address the critical factors that filter the expression and meaning of others, hence the integration that realizes the potential of surfing. These factors are more or less dominant, depending on the particularity of the situations, and we do not intend to make them predominant in the understanding of surfing, but just try to show their effects on the possibility of potential's realization, as well as suggest what should be part of the self-analysis and the debates necessary for the individual and cultural evolution of surfing.
We start with sportive aspects. Given the rowing posture and the pressures raised by the surf, there is a certain structuring in the shoulders and back, as well as a general tension that contributes to a loss of flexibility. This process is more or less present at the various levels of practice and ways of assuming it, interfering with the existential and playful becoming. The process is reinforced by the “clothes” of the self and its integration during the wave, ending up establishing a kind of psycho-physical armor, through which the “energy runs” and the synchronized fitting with the wave and maneuvering happens, within a more or less self-expressive style and competitive efficiency logic.
Therefore, surfing generates a certain loss of flexibility, which affects the manifestation and evolution of the various dimensions, in which other interfering factors are integrated, dubbed the “clothing of the self” or raw material to be solved.
Things exist depending on the way we relate to them, so, as we establish our relationship with surfing, so the various dimensions can express themselves and generate a kind of integration.
We soon realized that yoga, even if understood as a stretching and relaxation gymnastics, can help to solve the structure that reduces flexibility and, therefore, the evolution of surfing. But, in the same way that, by assuming yoga as gymnastics, we are reducing the other dimensions, too, in surfing, we are doing the same by assuming a relationship very centered on the sportive dimension.
It is important to remember the correlative sense and the interdependence between the various dimensions and use the self-analysis component of yoga. When we assume surfing as a sport, there is a set of critical factors , implicit in this definition, that come to dominate the relationship, for example: the sense of technicality, objectivity/effectiveness of acts , competitiveness, etc. In other words, the being in the water, the synchronization, the experience of perfections and the quality of the surrender gained another meaning, where the existential side was reduced, that is, the spiritual dimension does not express itself freely and cannot lead the evolution of others. The sportive I is on command and this may be limiting the other dimensions.
If the relationship is structured too much on these critical factors, it can even interfere and reduce the playful dimension of maneuvering and creativity, not being effective, as the freedom of this dimension is essential.
The prevalence of the sportive sense of surfing, whether in common practices or in high competition, generates a filter marked by discipline and competitiveness that affects the expression of the various dimensions and the wisdom that would subtly integrate them and guide the evolution of the whole. The spiritual dimension tends to be appropriated in the structure of this disciplined and competitive self, making the human dimension much more individualistic and the group forge dominated by this relationship.
On the other hand, life tends to focus on this discipline and on the pleasures of the playful dimension, which have to be repeated "to exhaustion" within this framework, that is, without a subtle integration of the sense of satisfaction or fusion in the wave and on the whole, that have been surpassed by this mode of technical mastery and fix their meaning on competitive goals, achieved or to be achieved. The dominance of this type of relationship generates a simplified sense of life, relationships and realities, which manages all aspects to maintain this fruition and everything else tends to become empty.
Therefore, the focus on the playful dimension does not allow for full spiritual integration, tending to make the forge in nature, into the armor of wave and others dominating self, relatively closed to everything that does not go through the recreation of this pleasure, turned hedonistic and selfish, where the wave is no longer a spiritual entity, but a physical process and the relation to the sea has this limitation. In competitive play or in the play by play, there is a reduction of the spiritual and human dimension, where the surfer stereotype is expressed: selfish, empty-headed, self-important, manipulative and, often, unable to deal with the transcendence that crosses him, entering into excesses and paths of self-destruction.
The ludic's dimension problem is partly due to the view of surfing as a sport and its evolution, but above all to the transformations that the human and spiritual dimensions have undergone with the increase in the number of practitioners, in a context where surfing was popularized and the implicit values of its philosophy and culture were not maintained, nor were they sufficiently cultivated, but rather became radicalized and, on the other hand, were chewed like chewing gum that loses its flavor, as they were being assimilated and appropriated by consumer's society.
There are many factors connected with this shift, but focusing only on what changed inside of water, we would say that while there is no place where all facets of the Aloha spirit can be said to have developed and deepened, the intuitive forge of the group was established spontaneously in many and expressed some of these facets, namely the presence and respect for the relationship that each one had with the sea. This subtle dimension was surfing and both maintained the connection to the essence and truth of the process, generated friendships and gave meaning to relationships and aquatic sociology, as well as stimulating the forge of the group, in the joint vibration, in the sharing of concentration and in the incentive.
And indeed many of the senses of the Aloha spirit did flourish, obviously within the limits created by the dominances and particularities of local cultures.
However, and simplifying the story, we would say that, as more and more practitioners emerged, new generations and surfing was assumed as a competitive and radical sport, this sociology collapsed in the face of radical individualism, indifference and aggressiveness, that is, the forge in the group and in the sense of the subtle relationship to the sea dissipated or has became more complex, the peaks lost their cultural feeling, linked to a more or less extended group, to its history and type of waves and, gradually they became “only” public spaces.
Waves are a relatively scarce good, where we can live an indescribable synthesis with the subtleties of nature and bring this wisdom to our humanity, to the integration of generated pleasure, etc. Therefore, as there are more people, the relationship with this good tends to enter a path that distorts the human and spiritual dimension, namely if there is no cultural force that structures the sense of relationships, the presence of the other and the distribution of this good.
The issue is obviously complex but, essentially, it derives from the inability to understand other's situation and it is solved with a little common sense on the part of everyone, for example: the locals intend to maintain the cultural sense, peace and enjoyment they have had, which also means catching most of the best waves; while others, with different levels of surfing and cultural training, want these waves, can also feel more or less locals, better surfers, etc. so these will generate various types of tension ...
The status of public space helps confusion, as everyone tends to feel equal and free to enjoy this good as it suits them best. However, there is a cultural process (spiritual, human and sportive) underway, with a particularity that it is important to tune in and respect: taking into account the relationship to the sea that each one has, namely in this place, the priority rules, good sense, dialogue, etc. If this process is felt, valued and respected, in its own time, everyone will find waves, be welcomed, integrated into it and contribute to its evolution. However, if, through ignorance or indifference, this harmony is neglected, and we enter into individualistic freedom, contradictions and conflicts are generated that distort the surfing's potential in its various dimensions.
With the growth in the number of surfers and the dominance of a simplifying sense of the surfer's generation modes, defined by the commercial acquisition and the sportive functionality of surfing, the peaks were penetrated by this individualistic and indifferent freedom that, not being relational, generated aggressiveness in the places and led them to become more or less stuck on this opposite of what surfing is. Local cultures were dissolving or closing, at the same time that individualistic freedom grew and, in its indifference, surf's yoga took place in a more competitive, aggressive and selfish climate, where everyone tries to maximize their pleasure and individual and group forge became an exercise of some mental weakness, instead of solving the problematic facets of the self and realizing the potential of surfing.
One thing is to be in the synchronies of nature, place and moment, catch the wave in this continuity and open up to the present change, without intentions, tensions and predefinitions of any kind. Another thing is to be the "competitor" or the one who "acquired" surfing and, in its sense of indifference, more or less aggressive and underhanded, is in a fight where he does everything to always have the advantage, cheating if necessary and, when joins the wave, his concentration takes the remnants of that struggle and continues it in the playful and hedonistic realm of pleasure "that the other cannot have" and, in the exaltation of his victory, he wants to repeat the process as quickly as possible, with due indifference and, if necessary, aggressiveness towards the other.
In a context of this kind, the group's forge enters into the relational and communicative incapacity that the mixture of complex emotions generates, into the obsession with maximizing individual pleasure and into indifference to the other. As a result the spiritual dimension is blocked and the human realizes the opposite of the Aloha spirit. The vibration in the air is filled with these qualities and there are no longer the magical exchanges of the other's energy, encouragement and learning. Conversely, there is selfishness, envy, anger, pride, “ evil eye ”, indifference, hypocrisy, deceit, alienation, frustration, etc.
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All this characterization tries to recreate the effects of some of the critical factors on the various dimensions of surfing and their ways of integrating them, clarifying the issue that, more or less prominently, is evolving in the contexts, in the ways of assuming, of understand and cultivate surfing. That is, the filters that, as a background or as direct obstructions, are quite unavoidable in the surfing experience.
In fact, surfing continues to happen in all its dimensions, but its natural yoga is more or less affected and distorted, so, as a relatively filtered relationship with them becomes normal, understanding is no longer possible, as well as the feeling and the realization of its true potential.
Surfing is becoming more and more an institutionallized sport, but the realization of its potential continues to be dominated by the ludic dimension, within a commercial logic, where human problems are forgotten, namely cultural evolution, and little is approached of the spiritual. However, there is more and more evidence about the therapeutic nature of surfing and successful projects are emerging in sociocultural, psychological and psychiatric issues.
Therefore, it is necessary to carefully assess all facets of this potential in light of the current reality and open up reflective paths, debates and awareness, as well as establish valuation, relational dynamics and foster the areas of knowledge (philosophical and scientific) that will regulate the understanding of what surfing is, its definition and culture, placing the various dimensions in a wiser way of expression and integration that realizes this potential.
The human or cultural dimension is obviously the one that is most affected and from there the spiritual and the others. Therefore, the initial focus of this assessment and regulation must be directed towards it and involve all collective agents in their types of responsibility, also particular practitioners and society in general. In other words, the human and cultural issue must enter into a reflection, debate and awareness that focuses on the key concepts of surfing and defines common sense principles and rules, so that the nature of surfing is respected and implemented. Which means taking everyone into account, not forgetting the culture, the places, the oldest and what we call the relationship with the sea.
The most important thing is that this reflection and dialogue must take place in and out of the water, arrive in the public agenda of the media and be assumed by policy makers, federations, clubs, schools, trainers of instructors, coaches, etc. and hold out over time until the values of the Aloha spirit and the magic in the group's forge become the most salient elements in and out of the water.
If the human dimension evolves in this direction, the spiritual one will be more evident, and the synergy of both will lead the others and the future evolutions of surfing, in a path of discovery and realization of its potential.
In this process, each one will give his contribution, mine, for now, start with this reflection and the proposal of SurfYoga, as yoga classes adapted to surf, designed with this vision of surfing, for various types of practitioners, including instructors and coaches, so that their message and types of training derive from a deeper and more complete vision and experience, which continues in the water and are generating their effects in the various dimensions, integrating them with that wisdom, opening to the new, etc., but nurturing surf culture and the appropriate points of view so that its philosophy and science can develop and realize its true potential in the whole of society.
Remembering that joint surfers vibration, to whom this reflection made sense and felt the wave, "go for it", in the aspects that seem most important to you and manage it so that we can all feel it...
(to my son Aron in memory of a surf poet, João Luís dos Santos)
Aloha to everybody
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